Like many of America’s bases in the Pacific, Guam mixes hedonism with war jitters. Japanese and South Korean visitors revel on the sand of Tumon Bay, a coral-reef lagoon. Above, f-15 fighters and b-1 bombers bank to land at Andersen Air Force Base nearby. Below, nuclear attack submarines slip in and out of Apra Harbour. The marines are building a base up the road. Around lie reminders of the Pacific war between America and Japan. The last Japanese soldier surrendered in 1972.

“Where America’s day begins”, as Guam likes to sell itself (incorrectly), is also where a future American war with China may begin. This westernmost speck of America, just 30 miles (48km) long and with a population of about 170,000, helps it project power across the vast Pacific. As tension over Taiwan worsens, war games often predict early and sustained Chinese missile strikes on Guam, and perhaps the use of nuclear weapons against it.

I had a layover in Guam once...are you allowed to count that as countries that you have visited?

Did you get off the plane? A plane I was on once landed in Cincinnati, but we didn’t get off before the next leg, so I’ve never (thankfully) been to Ohio.

we did get off the plane and spent a couple hours in the airport and grabbed a bite..this was January of 86 and I was 18

Congrats, you’ve been to Guam!

woohoo..